The sea, the sea

With the Equinox firmly in the rearview mirror, it really is the start of Autumn, although in much of the UK it doesn't feel like it; warm and sunny weather is keeping everyone out on the terraces for longer than usual. But that belies the storm that's brewing in the Channel. And this week's Greater Things asks Paperweight readers to support the volunteers bearing the brunt of the culture war du jour. The Labour Party's conference is in full swing, and news that help for first-time buyers is on its way adds to the list of promises that Andy Burnham has made to the nation.

This week we're delighted to welcome Orwell Prize shortlisted journalist Greg Barradale, whose Paperweight debut highlights the tricky problem of what to do about Britain's private equity-owned trains.

Here's what's coming up:

Darkroom: The ruby red dawn of the Autumn Equinox illuminates the South West coast
UK Affairs: Greg Barradale blows the whistle on what rail nationalisation might mean for the rolling stock itself
On the Town: Unfussy French food on proper crockery with an unbeatable wine list
En Route: Save on transmanche train travel with Eurostar Snap and a 60,000 Avios bonus

Darkroom

Photograph of the week, as chosen by Paperweight Magazine's picture bureau:

The sky glows with a glorious, vibrant dawn colour on the morning of the Autumn Equinox at the seaside village of Charmouth in Dorset. Credit: Celia McMahon/Alamy Live News

Greater Things

1001 ways to live your life greater:

The volunteers who rescue lives at sea are under attack from the radical right. This week's Greater Things calls upon us all to send them our support:

UK Affairs

The latest from Paperweight's UK Affairs bureau:

This week, the tenth train operating company was brought back under government control. Anyone would be forgiven for concluding that the newly-painted GBR-livery trains are coming back to public ownership too. In his Paperweight debut, Orwell Prize-winning journalist Greg Barradale blows the whistle on the convoluted ownership of Britain's rolling stock:

On the Town

What's happening in town this week:

Cal Roscow reviews the second outpost of Carole Bryon and Matyáš Plzák's Covent Garden French favourite:

En Route

The latest from Paperweight's En Route bureau:

Eurostar Snap to Lille and Brussels Next Week Crossing the Channel by train is notoriously expensive, especially at weekends. But, looking ahead to next week, there's greater availability closer to the weekend on both the Brussels and Lille routes, if you're using Eurostar Snap. So if you fancy a short city break, now's your chance to get a ticket for £40-50 at times when prices often soar to over £200.

If you're not familiar with Eurostar Snap, it's a last-minute booking website that allows you to travel on all Eurostar routes for as little as £35. The drawback is that you don't get to choose the exact train you travel on. Instead, you opt to travel in the morning or the afternoon. If you're a stickler for schedules, this isn't the travel tool for you. But if you're happy to be a bit flexible, you can save hundreds of pounds. The booking window is (in theory) up to 14 days ahead, but often tickets get 'snapped up' (sorry), as each day becomes available. Check the latest Eurostar Snap availability.

Up to 60,000 Avios Bonus American Express is currently running Avios bonus offers for new customers on three of their cards:

British Airways American Express Premium Plus: 60,000 Avios for spending £6,000 in three months (this bonus is normally 30,000 Avios)
British Airways American Express Accelerating Business: 40,000 Avios for sole traders or SMEs spending £5,000 in three months (this bonus is normally 30,000 Avios)
British Airways American Express: 10,000 Avios for spending £2,000 in three months (this bonus is normally 5,000 Avios)

All these bonus offers end on 6th October 2026. As ever, it's very important that you read all the small print and check the annual fees for holding the card. But, with flights to European destinations starting at 9,000 Avios, these bonus offers can sometimes make the annual fee pay for itself within a few months.

And, as ever, here's everything that's going on this week:

London

Restaurant Openings:
Nakimushi Just opened last week, a new Japanese ramen and hot-food restaurant from the Dorian/Eel Sushi team on Kensington Mall. Reservations recommended. Nakimushi, 7 Kensington Mall, London W8 4EB. Opened 22nd September 2026.

Brook & Green A new neighbourhood restaurant has opened on Chiswick High Road, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, from Silver Birch's Tim Price, with an exceptionally reasonably priced menu. Reservations recommended. Brook & Green, 142 Chiswick High Road, London W4 1PU. Opened 23rd September 2026.

Listings:
Yuko Mohri: In Concert A new sound-and-kinetic-sculpture commission for the Barbican's Curve, marking 20 years of the space's site-specific commissions. Free admission. Barbican Centre, Silk Street, London EC2Y 8DS. Opens Thursday 1st October 2026.

Football's Alternative Press Daniel Gray discusses his new book, Fanzine: The Story Of Football's Alternative Press, on the movement that gave fans a voice against the 1980s hooligan stereotype. Free admission. The Volley, 211 Old Street, London EC1V 9NR. Monday 28th September 2026, 6.30pm.

Wallace At War Art historian Andy Friend discusses the 1942 Anglo-Soviet friendship exhibitions staged at Hertford House during WWII, and how the Artists International Association helped artists fleeing Nazi-occupied Europe. Tickets from £16. Wallace Collection, Hertford House, Manchester Square, London W1U 3BN. Monday 28th September 2026, 6.30pm to 7.30pm.

Kyiv Independent: Live in London Journalists from the Kyiv Independent's first live London event, on the front-line reality of the war and the role of independent journalism. Tickets from £75 (Livestream £25). Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9AG. Monday 28th September 2026, 6pm to 9pm.

London Sewing Machine Museum On display from Saturday, a collection of antique sewing machines, including one gifted to Queen Victoria's daughter, for one Saturday afternoon every month. Free admission, donations welcome. London Sewing Machine Museum, 308 Balham High Road, London SW17 7AA (postcode to confirm). Saturday 3rd October 2026, 2pm to 5pm.

American Writers' Week A British Library series pairing US literary heavyweights, Joyce Carol Oates, Alison Bechdel, Armistead Maupin, Viet Thanh Nguyen, in conversation. Tickets vary by event. British Library, 96 Euston Road, London NW1 2DB. Monday 28th September until Friday 2nd October 2026.

Modern-Day Monuments Men British Army Cultural Property Protection Unit officers on safeguarding heritage sites and artworks during armed conflict, under the 1954 Hague Convention. Free admission. National Army Museum, Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea, London SW3 4HT. Thursday 1st October 2026, 12pm to 1pm.

1980s London: GLC Poster Campaigns Hazel Atashroo on the Greater London Council's 1980s public-art campaigns, using originals from The London Archives collection and her book London's Ours!; archive display, talk, Q&A and book-signing. Tickets from £10. The London Archives, 40 Northampton Road, Clerkenwell, London EC1R 0HB. Thursday 1st October 2026, 6pm to 8pm.

Vintage Bus Rides 1930s-70s buses run for one day on part of the 106 route (Finsbury Park to Ash Grove Bus Station via Stoke Newington, Clapton, Hackney Central). Free admission, hop on board. Along the 106 route, from Finsbury Park, London N4. Saturday 3rd October 2026, 10am to 5pm.

NIGO: From Japan With Love It's the final week for the streetwear icon's first museum retrospective anywhere, built around a recreation of his teenage Harajuku bedroom. Tickets from £19. Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High Street, London W8 6AG. Until Sunday 4th October 2026.

FABRICLIVE: Yung Singh, O'Flynn, KOLLIN + more The Clerkenwell institution's flagship all-nighter, three rooms deep. Tickets from £7.50. Fabric, 77a Charterhouse Street, London EC1M 6HJ. Friday 2nd October 2026, 11pm to 6am.

Weval (DJ): All Night Long The Dutch electronic duo take the whole night solo in one of Brixton's best basements. Tickets from £5. Phonox, 418 Brixton Road, London SW9 7AY. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

Cable Street 90 gig A DJ set from Sports Banger and King Alpha Sound System marking 90 years since the Battle of Cable Street, proceeds to striking workers. Tickets from £10. Kachette, 347 Old Street, London EC1V 9LP. Saturday 3rd October 2026, 8pm until 11.30pm.

Last Chance to See:
The Last Ship Tickets from £38. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine Street, London WC2B 5JF. Closes Saturday 3rd October 2026.
My Son's A Queer (But What Can You Do?) Tickets from £20. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1D 7EZ. Closes Saturday 3rd October 2026.
Alcina Tickets from £42. Royal Opera House, Bow Street, London WC2E 9DD. Closes Saturday 3rd October 2026.
English National Ballet: Rhythm Riot Tickets from £15. Sadler's Wells, Rosebery Avenue, London EC1R 4TN. Closes Saturday 3rd October 2026.
The Children Tickets from £15. Lyric Hammersmith Theatre, Lyric Square, King Street, London W6 0QL. Closes Saturday 3rd October 2026.

Manchester

King Lear David Threlfall returns to the Royal Exchange after 27 years, in a new Matthew Dunster production marking the theatre's 50th anniversary. Tickets from £33.50. Royal Exchange Theatre, St Ann's Square, Manchester M2 7DH. Opens Friday 2nd October 2026.

Bridgewater Hall Building Tour This behind-the-scenes wander through the Bridgewater Hall's architecture and history is definitely one for architecture enthusiasts. Tickets from £10. The Bridgewater Hall, Lower Mosley Street, Manchester M2 3WS. Monday 28th September 2026, 11.15am.

Tom Borrow: Manchester Middays A lunchtime piano recital in the Hall as part of the midweek series. Tickets from £15. The Bridgewater Hall, Lower Mosley Street, Manchester M2 3WS. Tuesday 29th September 2026, 1pm.

Portrait of Black Britain Cephas Williams' free photography exhibition of 228 portraits of Black people across the UK, opening for Black History Month. Free admission. Aviva Studios, St John's, Manchester M3 4JQ. Opens Thursday 1st October.

Drink The Sea New supergroup featuring R.E.M.'s Peter Buck and Alain Johannes. Tickets from £29. Band on the Wall, 25 Swan Street, Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 5JZ. Thursday 1st October 2026.

Nooriyah, Adele Tondu, Imad:re SWANA-fusion club show at the newly opened Locker space, Nooriyah's Manchester debut. Tickets from £17. New Century Locker, 34 Hanover Street, Manchester M4 4AH. Friday 2nd October 2026.

Paranoid London, Kiosk + guests Acid-house veterans headline the Locker's opening weekend. Tickets from £17. New Century Locker, 34 Hanover Street, Manchester M4 4AH. Saturday 3rd October 2026, doors 11pm.

Glasgow

Sonica Glasgow: An-Ting / Underwater + PanOrama An experimental sound-art double bill in Tramway's cavernous main space. Tickets from £16. Tramway, 25 Albert Drive, Glasgow G41 2PE. Thursday 1st October 2026.

Tristan & Yseult A retelling of the Cornish legend. Tickets from £25. Citizens Theatre, 119 Gorbals Street, Glasgow G5 9DS. Tuesday 30th September until Saturday 3rd October 2026.

Edinburgh

The Whaler's Wife: A Play, A Pie and A Pint Sea shanties, bawdy humour and Orcadian folklore over a lunchtime pie. Tickets from £14. Traverse Theatre, 10 Cambridge Street, Edinburgh EH1 2ED. Tuesday 29th September until Saturday 3rd October 2026, 1pm.

Emerging Artists: Silver Keys A showcase concert for emerging musicians. Tickets from £5. Usher Hall, Lothian Road, Edinburgh EH1 2EA. Monday 28th September 2026.

The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie A David Harrower adaptation of Muriel Spark's novel opens this week at the Lyceum. Tickets from £20. Royal Lyceum Theatre, 30b Grindlay Street, Edinburgh EH3 9AX. Opens Friday 2nd October 2026.

Aziz Ibrahim: Lahore To Longsight (full band tour) The Stone Roses/Simply Red guitarist's solo tour blending Punjabi and Mancunian influences. Tickets from £18. Sneaky Pete's, 73 Cowgate, Edinburgh EH1 1JW. Thursday 1st October 2026, 7pm.

Belfast

Artist Talk: Paul Seawright in conversation with Ken Grant A free talk on the Sectarian Murder Series photography exhibition. Free admission. Golden Thread Gallery, 23-29 Queen Street, Belfast BT1 6EA. Thursday 1st October 2026.

Rehearsed Reading: The Reckoning by Brian McAvera A play reading staged inside the gallery itself. The Reckoning is a new play by Brian McAvera about Venetian painter Lorenzo Lotto, once almost forgotten, yet now recognised as one of the most important artists of the Renaissance. Free admission. Golden Thread Gallery, Upper Gallery, 23-29 Queen Street, Belfast BT1 6EA. Friday 2nd October 2026.

Susan Hughes: A Feeling in the Blood Video, sculpture and loaned artefacts from Irish traditional music culture; extended hours for Late Night Art. Free admission, booking essential, £5 donation suggested. The MAC, 10 Exchange Street West, Belfast BT1 2NJ. 31st July until 18th October 2026, Late Night Art Thursday 1st October, 11am until 9pm.

Opera Voyage: UK & Ireland Ulster Touring Opera's relaxed matinee of British and Irish operatic excerpts. Tickets from £22.50. Grand Opera House, The Studio, 2-4 Great Victoria Street, Belfast BT2 7HR. Saturday 3rd October 2026, 2.30pm.

Birmingham

Birmingham Royal Ballet: Class on Stage A chance to look behind the curtain, in this public event allowing access to BRB's daily company class. Tickets from £15. Birmingham Hippodrome, Hurst Street, Southside, Birmingham B5 4TB. Saturday 3rd October 2026, 10.45am.

Lines of Flight A ten-day exhibition showcasing artwork by KS1-4 students from Ark’s five Birmingham schools: Ark Boulton, Ark Kings, Ark St Alban’s, Ark Tindal and Ark Victoria. Free admission. Ikon Gallery, 1 Oozells Square, Brindleyplace, Birmingham B1 2HS. 2nd until 11th October 2026.

Balraj Khanna First major survey exhibition of the late Punjabi-British painter, opening on Wednesday. Free admission. Ikon Gallery, 1 Oozells Square, Brindleyplace, Birmingham B1 2HS. Opens Wednesday 30th September 2026.

Resistance, Re-Imagine A collaboration between GRAIN Projects and Pathshala Media Institute (Bangladesh), featuring artists Mushfiq Mahbub Turjo and Zillah Bowes. Free admission. mac (Midlands Arts Centre), Cannon Hill Park, Birmingham B12 9QH. Opened 19th September 2026.

Brighton

Where are all the Lesbians? New exhibition uncovering lesbian histories in the museum's collection alongside artist responses. Free with museum admission. Brighton Museum & Art Gallery, Royal Pavilion Gardens, Brighton BN1 1EE. Opens Saturday 3rd October 2026.

The Mehfil Space presents: Sanju Sahai and Jason Kalidas Indian classical percussion in the Dome's smaller Studio Theatre. Tickets from £22. Brighton Dome, Studio Theatre, 29 New Road, Brighton BN1 1UG. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

And So I Watch You From Afar and The Most Beautiful Anthropocene Cameraless-photography exhibition by Aindreas Scholz on environmental change, just opening. Free with museum admission. Brighton Museum & Art Gallery, Royal Pavilion Gardens, Brighton BN1 1EE. Opens Friday 2nd October 2026.

The Biba Look: Photography and Fashion New exhibition on the 1960s and 70s fashion label. Free with museum admission. Brighton Museum & Art Gallery, Royal Pavilion Gardens, Brighton BN1 1EE. Opens Saturday 3rd October 2026.

CRUSH A British-Somali romantic comedy, Crush is a tender, funny and honest story about identity, connection and the messy path to healing. Longlisted for the Tony Craze Award 2025. Tickets from £10. Brighton Dome, Studio Theatre, 29 New Road, Brighton BN1 1UG. Tuesday 29th and Wednesday 30th September 2026.

Brushy One String The Jamaican one-string-guitar musician blends reggae, folk, and blues. Tickets from £21. Komedia, 44-47 Gardner Street, Brighton BN1 1UN. Wednesday 30th September 2026.

African Soul Rebels: Les Amazones d'Afrique, Gasper Nali & N'famady Kouyaté African Soul Rebels is reborn for a new era – celebrating fearless artists who reshape tradition, challenge borders and put rhythm at the centre of resistance and joy. Tickets from £24.50. Brighton Dome, Corn Exchange, 29 New Road, Brighton BN1 1UG. Friday 2nd October 2026.

Bristol

The Dominican Front Room at Watershed Real Caribbean keepsakes from Bristol families displayed in a walkway window, part of Black History Month. Free to see. Watershed, 1 Canons Road, Harbourside, Bristol BS1 5TX. Opens 2nd October 2026.

FVU New Takes Arnolfini celebrates ambitious new talent in moving image in partnership with Film and Video Umbrella, now in its final week. Free admission. Arnolfini, 16 Narrow Quay, Bristol BS1 4QA. Until Sunday 4th October 2026.

Beverly Buchanan: Weathering Just-opened first UK survey of the American sculptor and painter. Free admission. Spike Island, 133 Cumberland Road, Bristol BS1 6UX. Opened 26th September 2026.

Blaze FM The Big House made their Edinburgh Fringe Festival debut with Blaze FM in 2025, an explosive piece of political theatre weaving Grime, Garage, Drill and Jungle tracks through a powerful and electrifying performance. Tickets from £15. Bristol Old Vic, King Street, Bristol BS1 4ED. 29th September until 3rd October 2026.

Top Gunchained This uplifting comedy brings you a jet-powered tour through your favourite characters, and all the romance and action of Tom Cruise’s aerial blockbuster, alongside the heartfelt story of father and son superfans who can’t agree on anything except their favourite film. Tickets from £17. Bristol Old Vic, King Street, Bristol BS1 4ED. 30th September until 3rd October 2026.

Carla Dal Forno Dusklit art-pop and dubwise post-punk minimalism from Australian-Italian electronic and post-punk artist, Carla Dal Forno. Tickets from £16.50. Strange Brew, Fairfax Street, Bristol BS1 3BN (postcode to confirm). Friday 2nd October 2026.

Cardiff

On hold on (Sophie Mak-Schram) A lightbox artwork of overlooked museum objects, illuminating Chapter's entrance. Free admission. Chapter, Market Road, Canton, Cardiff CF5 1QE. Until 11th October 2026.

Cardiff Half Marathon Early Opening Free early gallery access for runners and family on race morning. Free admission. National Museum Cardiff, Cathays Park, Cardiff CF10 3NP. Sunday 4th October 2026.

Ibibio Sound Machine + Ladylike Tickets from £12. Clwb Ifor Bach, Womanby Street, Cardiff CF10 1BR. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

Swim Deep + Slow Country Tickets from £21. Clwb Ifor Bach, Womanby Street, Cardiff CF10 1BR. Thursday 1st October 2026.

Liverpool

An Evening with Marina Hyde In conversation with Stuart Maconie. Tickets from £22. Playhouse Theatre, Williamson Square, Liverpool L1 1EL. Tuesday 29th September 2026.

Wide-Angle View: Manplan, 1969-70 Touring exhibition of 80-plus original 1960s photographs critiquing British architecture and urban planning. Free admission. RIBA North, Gallery 1, 21 Mann Island, Liverpool L3 1BP. Until 1st November 2026.

Vivienne Westwood: Designer in Focus Free display of pieces from Westwood's career, including a Keith Haring-collaboration tunic. Free admission. Walker Art Gallery, William Brown Street, Liverpool L3 8EL. Until 18th October 2026.

How To Read An Image A three-day conference of talks and lecture-performances on images and AI. Tickets from £10. FACT, 88 Wood Street, Liverpool L1 4DQ. Friday 2nd October until Sunday 4th October 2026.

Full Fathom Five Group show of paintings, constructions and carvings inspired by the sea, opened last week. Free admission. Open Eye Gallery, 19 Mann Island, Liverpool L3 1BP. Opened 25th September 2026.

Kristin Hersh Solo acoustic show in the Philharmonic's smaller room. Tickets from £29. Philharmonic Music Room, Liverpool Philharmonic, Liverpool L1 9BP. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

Katherine Jenkins: 25 Year Anniversary Tour Tickets from £37. Liverpool Philharmonic Hall, Liverpool L1 9BP. Saturday 3rd October 2026, 7pm.

Newcastle

Steve Reich at 90: Colin Currie talks to Tom Service A free talk ahead of the Reich concert. Free admission. The Glasshouse, St Mary's Square, Gateshead Quays, Gateshead NE8 2JR. Friday 2nd October 2026.

Royal Northern Sinfonia: Steve Reich The Desert Music, Clapping Music, Double Sextet and Runner. Tickets from £5. The Glasshouse, St Mary's Square, Gateshead Quays, Gateshead NE8 2JR. Friday 2nd October 2026.

BBC Introducing From The Glasshouse Free showcase curated by Jazz North East. Free admission. The Glasshouse, St Mary's Square, Gateshead Quays, Gateshead NE8 2JR. Wednesday 30th September 2026.

Nottingham

Team Viking Comic storytelling and music show about death and friendship, featuring a Viking helmet. Tickets £15. Nottingham Playhouse, Wellington Circus, Nottingham NG1 5AF. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

The Glad Game New drama by Phoebe Frances Brown, just opened. The Glad Game is a story of finding yourself in the darkest moments, about leaning on those who love you and finding reasons everywhere to be glad. Tickets from £15. Nottingham Playhouse, Wellington Circus, Nottingham NG1 5AF. Thursday 1st until Friday 2nd October 2026.

Meera Syal: Vigilauntie! Dame Meera Syal joins us to share the hilarious and heartwarming true stories that have shaped her life and work as one of Britain's most beloved comedy legends. Tickets from £45. Nottingham Playhouse, Wellington Circus, Nottingham NG1 5AF. Tuesday 29th September 2026.

Sheffield

Open Works Festival 2026 New festival taking over the Playhouse space, opens exactly this week. See all ticketed events. Playhouse, Sheffield Theatres, 55 Norfolk Street, Sheffield S1 1DA. Opens Monday 28th September 2026, until 10th October 2026.

Americana: Gershwin and Bernstein for Trumpet A trumpet recital in the Unitarian chapel turned concert room. Tickets from £5. Upper Chapel, Norfolk Street, Sheffield S1 2JB. Saturday 3rd October 2026.

New Editions: Contemporary Printmaking An exhibition of 60 leading printmakers. Free admission, £5 donation suggested. Millennium Gallery, Arundel Gate, Sheffield S1 2PP. Until 24th December 2026.

Flock: Make A Dance A club and dance night in a converted recording studio and warehouse space. Tickets from £16. Yellow Arch Studios, 30-36 Burton Road, Neepsend, Sheffield S3 8BX. Friday 2nd October 2026.