It is said that a true Patatas Bravas recipe, originating from the bars of 1950s Madrid, shouldn't contain any tomatoes, taking its rich red colour solely from smoked paprika. For those who like a little more bite, this clever evolution of the recipe drops a touch of baking soda into the water to add a little more 'crujido', and onions instead of cornflour to give the sauce a bit more body. This is a guest-friendly recipe, making use of fine rapeseed oil oven-roasting so you don't have to watch over a stove. Pair with a Galician albariño, for an effortless but impressive side, starter or party dish.
Patatas Bravas Crujientes
Prep 15 min
Cook 50 to 60 min
Serves 4-6 (as a side dish or party plate)
Suitable for vegans and those who are gluten-intolerant.
For the patatas:
1kg potato (any large white potato will do), peeled and cut into approximately 2cm/1 inch
1 tbsp fine flowing salt/table salt
1.5 tbsp bicarbonate of soda
3 tsp fresh or dried thyme and/or rosemary, finely chopped
1 tsp Maldon sea salt flakes
Enough rapeseed oil to cover a large baking sheet in a thin layer.
For the bravas sauce:
1 red onion & 1 brown onion, finely chopped
2.5 tbsp rapeseed oil (or olive oil if you wish)
3-4 large cloves of garlic, minced
2 tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp dried chilli flakes (or to taste)
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp Maldon sea salt flakes (or to taste)
1 tbsp tomato puree
4 green olives, very finely chopped (almost puréed)
350 ml vegetable stock
Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan). In a medium-sized pan, on high heat, add 1.5 tbsp rapeseed oil and the chopped onions. Once sizzling, add 3 tbsp cold water. Once it comes to a bubble, turn down to medium, put the lid on, and leave for 15 minutes.
Boil a large pot of water, and then add the fine salt & bicarbonate of soda (it will fizz up), and add your potatoes. Place the lid on to fully cover it. Return to the boil, add the lid, but only to partly cover the pan, in order to prevent the baking powder foam from spilling over, and then boil for seven minutes. Tip: Don't add the potato to cold water and bring to the boil, as you might with larger roast potato-sized chunks, or you'll end up with mashed potato.
Whilst the potatoes are boiling, place your baking tray with oil into the oven to preheat.
Once the potatoes have had seven minutes on the boil, lift one cube of potato out with a spatula, and drag a fork across its surface; it should fluff up. If not, boil for one further minute. Place a colander in the sink, drain the potatoes, and leave them there for a moment.
Once the onions have had their 15 minutes, take off the lid. Using a spatula, spread the onions to the edges of the pan, creating a well in the centre. To this well, pour in the second tbsp of rapeseed oil, and then add the garlic, smoked paprika, chilli flakes, dried oregano, and black pepper. Fry for 1-2 minutes, until you are hit with the scent of these spices. Then add the sea salt flakes, olives, tomato puree, and vegetable stock. Leave this to simmer on a medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Carefully take the tray of hot oil out of the oven and put on a heatproof surface. Tumble over the parboiled potatoes (they should sizzle). With a spatula, gently push and flip the potatoes so they get an even covering of oil. Coat with 1/2 tsp of sea salt flakes and 1 tsp of your fresh or dried thyme and/or rosemary. Place in the oven for 15 minutes.
Take the tray out of the oven, flip the potatoes with a spatula, and cover with another 1 tsp of your thyme/rosemary. Place back in the oven for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, blend your Bravas sauce either with a stick blender or place into a standalone/bullet blender and blend (providing the latter is safe to blend hot liquid). If needed, add a couple of tablespoons of water (if the sauce has become more of a paste). Strain the sauce through a sieve into a bowl. This gives it a lovely, silky texture.
After the final 20 minutes, take the potatoes out the oven. They should be golden and crispy all over. If you have a temperamental oven, they may require an extra 5 minutes.
Place the potatoes on a plate, and drizzle with some of the Bravas. Dollop the remaining Bravas on the side of the plate, or in a small, separate bowl. The idea here is that you do not want to drown every surface of potato in Bravas; you want parts of the potato to remain crispy. Sprinkle over 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves/chopped rosemary, and a grinding of black pepper.
Make-ahead note: the Bravas sauce can be made 2-3 days in advance, kept in the fridge, and reheated in a pan when needed, leaving you to make the Patatas just ahead of serving.
